After 2023 and 2024 we headed again to Northern Finland in February, but this time much further north and with a different focus. Of course the snow clad spruces of the Riisitunturi NP and in the hills around Ruka where part of the plan, but we wanted to visit the National Parks and protected areas much further in the north, where we either spent so far to little time or we have not visited at all.

It should have been a mixture of well known (and photographywise efficient) areas and completely unknown parts of the far north. For these northern areas I neither found good information nor many pictures in the agencies, true location scouting! Places like Lemmenjoki NP are well documented for summer trips but information for winter is sparse and often dedicated to multi day skiing trips. Thats something we did not want to do at least not this time.

The venturing into the unknown is part of the fun, to explore new destinations is maybe time consuming but it is rewarding as well. We landed at the airport in Ivalo, already in the far north, headed a bit south to Urho Kekkonen NP, further south to Ruka and Riisitunturi, went north again to Pyhä-Luosto, Inari, Kirkenes and Utsjoki. Our final destination was Lemmenjoki NP, half way back to Ivalo. Lots of roads in winter conditions.....

The main focus in photography was again landscape work, expecially tundra landscapes, but it shifted.....

The weather in Ruka/Riisitunturi and Pyhä was really bad, I mean really really bad. Temperature above freezing with wind and rain. The snow was melting away,  it was a week with southerly, wet winds....... and it was not yet even the end of February!
Only later in Utsjoki and Lemmenjoki the normal winter temperature came back.

Winter in the tundra with rain and no snow and ice on the trees is a commercial nogo. It was still ok for sports but not for landscape photography. Therefore my focus changed to wildlife including reindeer, which was planned to be a focus later in Utsjoki. But now Reindeer became more and more a central part of this trip.

In Ruka I managed to get a place in the Oulanka golden eagle hide, which turned out to be a good day. Lots of eagle activity, still subpar weather, but ok for wildlife. In other places I knew from former visits, bird feeders are placed for tits, jars and other small birds. These places nearly always work quite well for bird photography. This in combination with snowshoeing kept me busy and happy, despite the weather.

In nearly all locations with the exception of Lemmenjoki, we managed to visit Sami Reindeer herders. All visits have been very different as in the different regions of finnish lapland reindeer is managed in a different way during winter. Of course busy places like Ruka or Pyhä with lots of tourists have different concepts to introduce Reindeer to tourists, some are even specialized to cater for buses. Therefore every farm had very different photo opportunities and had been very different in character. There would have been many herders in Lemmenjoki as well, but we prefered to be outdoors in the National Park and it would not have been a different epxerience than in Ruka or Pyhä.

Nearly all european rendeer, with the exception of a very small group in southern Norway and the wild Svalbard Reindeer, are owned by herderss, who take care of them and lives of Reindeer products like skin and meat (and now tourism). The Reindeer are not domesticated like sheep or cattle, but are something in between domesticated and wild. It is said that the Sami adapted their society to the life of the Reindeer and not vice versa. And there was never a real "planned" breeding like in true domesticated animals. Breeding was left to nature!

Reindeer husbandry is also a way of life for the Sami People in most scandinavian countries. During summer the Reindeer roam without human interference the tundra and taiga of Scandinavia. The story is different during winter. Due to boundaries between the countries traditional migration routes to the winter pastures are blocked. Roads, towns and other human infrastrucure reduced the pasture as well and the owners supply often additional food for their animals.

In the more southerly areas like Ruka or Pyhä, the Reindeer is rounded up in autumn and all animals are kept in enclosures during winter. It is different in the northerly areas like Lemmenjoki or Utsjoki with much more open and nearly untouched areas in the mountains. In these areas the big herds are still roaming free in the mountains but somtimes additional food is provided. In Utsjoki on a regular basis, in Lemmenjoki only if the Reindeer would suffer to much losses during winter (like this year). For tourism and traditional sports even in theses areas a small number is kept in fenced off areas close to the villages.

Thats what I have learned from the different herders.

But now some landscapes from South to North in a kind of transect to show the change of landscape and vegetation. You will see the differences easily. 

Lets start with Ruka/Riisitunturi/Salla. We arrived and the weather changed. We just had one day before the snow was gone from the trees, already cloudy but in a way very atmospheric!

Even if we had been not lucky this year, Ruka is the best for snow, hills and snow clad spruces. Within one hour you can reach Riisitunturi, Salla and Oulanka NPs and it is only some minutes to the just as great places in the Ruka hills. The typical and photogenic spruces make it to the hilltops only sometimes pines or birches are taking over. Only the very tops of the mountains are treeless. Ruka has plenty of accomodation and there are more National Parks and protected areas a bit towards south, which I have never been.

Already north of the polar circle is Pyhä-Luosto National Park and the weather started to improve again. Great landscape and lots of skiing and snowshoeing trails. It is a great location, but to far away from Ruka to combine both locations. You have to change your accomodation.

In Pyhä Luosto the summits are without trees or shrubs, spruces stay in the lowlands and in the higher altitudes pines and birches are taking over. If you look for spruces on the summits in winter, thats already a bit to north.....

Another 2-3 hours to the north is Urho Kekkonen National Park, right at the russian border. It is a huge park (compared to the Riisitunturi or Pyhä-Luosto) and in most parts it is undeveloped. Only hiking during summer and backcountry skiing during winter, true wilderness. Only at very few places close to the border of the National Park are tracks maintained during winter, but these tracks are stunning. You feel the arctic and the taiga stays in the lowlands.....

UK NP, as it is called sometimes, was our first stop. We arrived late in the evening after driving from Ivalo, just got a meal, before everything closed down and one hour later we climbed Mt. Kiilopää for a wonderful aurora night. We had been alone on the summit in true arctic conditions. What a start!

So far in the north, spruces are confined to the lowlands, pines and birches grow half way up to the tops. It is the wrong place, if you are looking for spruce-winter-wonderland, but it is an awesome place if you are looking for wide open spaces, wilderness and wind-blown summits.

We always stay near the ski resort Saariselkä, close to the Kiilopää Gate, with its access to skiing tracks and winter hiking. Even the next night was an aurora night, not as breathtaking as the first, but still ok.

The next stop, for most travellers the only one in the finnish true north, is magical Lake Inari. Lots of buses, very touristy even in winter. I did not try to explore this area. I am sure you will find good spots, but it will take time and you need a local to guide you on the lake on a snowmobile. It is a flat area, difficult for photography. I guess it is great, if you arrange a private tour on snowmobiles with overnight stays far away from the hot spots...... We skipped it.

One hour to the west of Inari right on the border to Norway is a famous and untouched National Park - Lemmenjoki!

In Finland Lemmenjoki is famous, it was in the heart of a gold rush last century. The historic digs are now protected in the National Park. Access is on a huge lake, with regular boat excursions during summer. It is a mountainous and rugged area, great for hikes with tent or by kayak. In winter it is completely undeveloped. The lake is frozen and it serves as the gateway to the park by ski or by snowshoe. Information is very hard to get. Even the tracks at the main trailhead are not maintained during winter. There maybe tracks, but be prepared to find nothing.... On the lake you will find snowmobile and Puka tracks.

My plan was to hike on the signposted trails (only sometimes possible, no tracks and to much snow) and to try to go by snowmobile deeper into the area. The latter is not possible at all, as the usage of snowmobile is restricted to Reindeer owners and they are not allowed to bring outsiders into the park.

It took a while to understand how winter photography might work in the park. You definitly need time, skis or snowshoes and a good level of fitness. We enjoyed it, but it is not an easy destination.

It is rewarding and there is enough to do from the trailheads. But as no motorized transport is possible, the more remote areas of the park are only possible with overnight trips, which is a special cup of tea.... -20 C in a tent is something different. And if you are down there, you will have to make your own tracks. Depending on the snow, it may be really difficult.... As I said, the access is easy, four hours or so on the frozen lake!

We have been lucky, one night was again a spectacular aurora night. Very special due to the nearly full moon. Normally full moon will kill aurora photo opportunities, to much light. But this time, it was just amazing. Alone in the middle of nowwhere, just me on snowshoes!

There was no sound, only glistering snow, you hear you heart beating. I used one of the tracks I knew from the previous days, headlamps where not necessary such bright was the moonlight. And it was below -20 C, true winter, finally! Very unique. The pics are looking otherworldly, but it was as bright as the photos show!

Right in the northermost corner of Finland is the last chapter of our transect - Paistunturi Wilderness Area. Together with Kevo Strict Nature Reserve it forms a vast untouched area with different protection levels. We decided to stay in Utsjoki on the banks of river Teno, now frozen.

Utsjoki is one of the few communities in Finland with a Sami majority. In winter there is only small scale tourism, no ski area, no prepared ski tracks only some cottages and sometimes a bus full of tourists organized by aurora hunting agencies.

The landscape is again very different. Nearly no pines, only birches, deep and steep valleys and vast windswept areas above the tree line.

The area is hiking country during summer and autumn. Plenty of signposted paths and even some huts. But I could not find reliable information regarding tracks in winter. Therefore I decided to look for a local guide, which could show me on snowmobile the Paistunturi. I was lucky with picking the right agency, a small Sami family business (Travel Utsjoki, highly recommended). We had lots of clouds and fog for most of the time, therefore the landscape photography did not work as well as I hoped, but we could join them feeding their Reindeer herd in the mountains. This was a very special experience and rewarding for photography. No fences, just wilderness and a huge herd of reindeer in the mountains and no petting reindeer. Bring your long lens......

Before showing the reindeer pictures I have some more aurora photos. There is nearly no air or light pollution in the Utsjoki area, a perfect location. The forecast was poor and we returned from the hills, as it was not worth while to wait up there, to poor a probabilty. But suddenly it started. Our cabin was in the middle of nowhere and I just had to step out of the cabin and was on the banks of the frozen river....

In finnish Reindeer is called poro and  porotila or poropuisto is a Reindeer "Farm/Park" (of course they are no real farms in the meaning of our "normal" farms). When your are driving through Lapland you will see sometimes signs with Poropuisto on it. It will show you the way to a farm. Some are touristic enterprises some not, some have accomodation, some cater for buses, some have viewing areas, some offer sledge tours, some petting areas and so on. In the internet you will find many options.

In any case it is rewarding to visit a poropuisto!

For photography not all are suited well. To much fences, to many people, to little time. My favourite place in the south is Kopara near Pyhä. It is great for portraits as the fenced off viewing area is hilly and it is easy to cut out the fences. The animals are used, probably to used, to visitors. You can feed them and meet them close up. I doubt, that these animals can be released into the wild during summer.... After paying the fee you stay as long as you want, it is really a great place and you will end up with great portraits. And you need everything from ultra wide angle lenses to your longest tele you have!

But a different level of experience had been the time we spent with the free roaming herd in Utsjoki. For photography it was a mix of reportage, landscape and portrait work. As I already said highly recommended and I am sure we will return!

I will show some more pics I shot during the two days, unfortunatly always foggy or cloudy, but this creates a special atmosphere..... Enjoy and many thanks to Petra and Ari-Heikki Aikio from Travel Utsjoki!

By mere luck a traditional reindeer race, part of the reindeer racing cup tour, was held in Utsjoki. We learned to late about it, but we could watch the final.... I tell you the reindeer runs fast.....

I have to come to an end now, but I still owe you some bird shots form the bad days in Ruka. Winter birdlife can be rewarding in Finland. The Oulanka Eagle Hide is long established and a worth while experience - if you like to stay for 10 hours in a hide. But there is basic heating and a loo.......

Some photos are from the hide some are from the feeders around Ruka. You need the longest lens you have!

Finland was again a great experience and highly recommended if you like true winter..... If you like true winter landscape, you can join me on our tour to Ruka and Pyhä-Luosto.

That is all for the moment, stay tuned and all the best!

Wir sind jetzt wieder regelmäßig auf den Fototagen und Reisemessen unterwegs. Wenn Ihr wollt besucht uns! Die nächsten Messen ist:

Naturfototage in Fürstenfeld bei München, 01. bis 04. Mai, wir sind am Wochenende an unserem Stand an der üblichen Stelle!

Wir haben die Workshops für die nächsten Jahre überarbeitet, einfach reinklicken! Neu ist zum Beispiel Finnland im Winter, wiederaufgelegt ist die ein-Monatstour Falkland und Südgeorgien. Im nächsten Abschnitt sind die links!

Thats it for the moment! Stay tuned and healthy!

written in Szentendre and Munich, April 2025